Beginner Help Photos for Crocheting

Help Photos for Crocheting the Off Center Lines Square

I've taken some in-progress photos of my Off Center Lines Square pattern, to refer to if any questions come up while crocheting the square. The photo above shows the pattern crocheted through Row 12, with Row 12 just completed and four more rows to go, to finish the square.

Below I have explained in detail any parts that I thought beginning crocheters might have questions about as they crochet the pattern.

Sometimes beginners will be unsure of the exact place that the double crochet should be made that is made right after the chain-3 that starts the row.

The photo on the left shows the chain-3 made, that is used to turn the piece around and begin the new row. This chain-3 also counts as the first double crochet of the row.

When a pattern indicates that the chain-3 that started the row counts as the first double crochet of the row, then you will not make the next double crochet in the stitch that is directly below that chain-3 but will make it in the next stitch (which is the second stitch of the row being worked into). If you made it in the first stitch of the row being worked into, you would accidentally increase the number of stitches in the row that you are just starting. The photo on the left above shows the double crochet made after the chain-3 that started the row. You can see where that double crochet was made.

Another common error that can result in an incorrect number of double crochet in the row is at the end of the row.

It is easy to accidentally skip crocheting into the chain-3 at the very end of the row being worked into (this is the chain-3 that started the row being worked into but since the crocheted piece was turned around to start a new row, that chain-3 is now at the end of the row that is being worked into). The photo on the left shows the end of the row, with the last double crochet of the current row already made in the chain-3 at the very end of the row being worked into.

If the chain-3 at the very end of a row is accidentally skipped and not worked into, it would incorrectly decrease the number of stitches in that row by one stitch each time. This is usually the reason for a crocheted piece becoming narrower with each row, when the crocheter did not intend for that to happen.

The three photos and hints above should help to get the correct number of double crochet stitches made in rows 1 and 2 of the pattern. It is essential to have the right number of stitches in these two rows, so that the filet crochet design to follow will work out correctly across the rows, without having too few stitches (or too many stitches) to accomplish that.

This photo shows the beginning of Row 3, so if you have any questions about the directions at the start of that row, you can compare those directions to this photo to understand what those directions mean. The row begins with the chain-3, then the next double crochet is made in the second stitch of the row being worked into (as I explained above). Next, you will make a double crochet in each of the next 3 double crochet.

The direction to (ch 1, skip next dc, dc in next dc) twice, if shown without the parenthesis (but just repeated in words) would read as:
ch 1, skip next dc, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip next dc, dc in next dc. The parenthesis help to shorten the amount of text in the pattern and what is inside the parenthesis is repeated the number of times that the pattern tells you to repeat it.

You can see on the photo above how this repeat looks when crocheted (the part with the holes in the design). Where you see the group of three double crochet made after the last hole, the first double crochet of that group of three was made as part of the repeat that you just did, so the directions now tell you to make a double crochet in each of the next two double crochet.

If you were not familiar before with the meaning of directions in parenthesis, to show repeats in a pattern, hopefully my photo and explanation above has cleared that up for you so that you can go ahead with the rest of the Row 3 directions to finish the row and to be able to confidentally crochet other patterns you come across that have repeats indicated by the use of parenthesis in the directions.

This photo shows the last part of the piece after Row 4 has been completed. Once you have successfully made it across Row 3, then each stitch made in Row 4 is like the stitch directly below it (but I have written these directions out completely for you in the pattern, for you to follow). You can see in the photo how this looks.

This last photo shows all of Row 4, after Row 4 has been completed, so you can see the look of the whole row.

In the pattern, rows 3 and 4 are repeated a number of times so, once you've got those rows figured out, repeating those rows is no problem.

At the very top of this page, I've shown a photo of Row 12 just completed, so you can see the look of making a double crochet in a chain-1 space, to make that row to be in solid double crochet all the way across.

After Row 12, there are 4 more rows to do but those are just repeats of things you have already done in the previous rows, so there's nothing that needs to be explained further for those rows.

The chart and full written pattern directions for my Off Center Lines Square are on another web page on my blog, at: Click Here
That url is -
http://filet-crochet.blogspot.com/2010/01/off-center-lines-square-free-crochet.html

Copyright, Terms of Use: This photo tutorial written by Sandi Marshall, with photos created by Sandi Marshall, January 2010. This tutorial, instructions and explanations and pattern photos are copyright 2010 by Sandi Marshall. You can help me to be able to continue making more tutorials by honoring copyright law regarding my patterns and tutorial pages. In other words, do not put my blog pages, pattern directions or images on another web page, blog or elsewhere, which would be a form of republishing them (even if it would be distributed for free; which, when done without my permission would still be a violation of copyright law). Do not distribute reproduced copies of any of the contents of this page, in any form, even for free. Instead, you may give others the URL for this page so that they may come to this site for themselves. Thank you. ~ Sandi Marshall

Off Center Lines Square Free Crochet Pattern

A Sandi Marshall Crochet Pattern Design Original

The photo on the left shows an example of one possibility for the way that you might join squares crocheted in various colors, to make an afghan from squares made using this free pattern.

There are many ways that you could arrange the squares, with different color combinations and also, the way that you turn the finished squares when arranging them (before you join the squares together) for the finished afghan.

I have written complete instructions for all rows for this filet crochet design so that you can make this square even if you are not yet familiar with doing filet crochet directly from a chart. I have also included the chart so you can bypass the written directions and use just the chart to crochet from, if you prefer that method.

If you haven't crocheted directly from a chart yet, you can learn how by comparing my written directions to the same row on the chart.

Materials: For an afghan square, use yarn of your choice with hook size to correspond to weight of yarn used.

The thinner the yarn or thread, the smaller your square will turn out to be. This square does not have to be any exact size. If you produce smaller squares, you will simply need more squares to result in the finished afghan size that you want. An advantage to smaller squares is that you have more squares to work with, resulting in more possibilities in the unique ways that you might arrange the squares in varying directions for different looks.

Yarn Materials Choices: For example -
sport weight yarn with a US size F or G hook,
worsted weight yarn with a US size H or I hook,
bulky weight yarn with a US size J or K hook.

A square made with sport weight yarn and a US size G hook has a finished size of about 8 inches square and a square made with worsted weight yarn and a US size H hook has a finished size of about 11 inches square, just to give you a general idea about finished size. If made with bulky weight yarn, it will be larger.

For squares joined to form a bedspread, table cloth, table runner or any other item that will be crocheted with crochet thread, examples of materials that might be used would be:

size 20 thread with a US size 9 steel hook (for a finished piece that's about 2 1/2 inches wide).

size 10 thread with a US size 7 or 8 steel hook (for a finished piece that's about 3 inches wide).

Or size 5 thread with a US size 4 steel hook (for a finished piece that's about 4 inches wide).

The finished sizes estimated above may vary some according to your own individual crochet tension (gauge) and the exact materials that you use to make the square.

Abbreviations used in this pattern:
ch = chain, ch-1 = chain-1, ch-3 = chain-3, dc = double crochet, ea = each, sp = space

These directions are written in American English crochet pattern terms.

These directions are for a square made in 3-dc mesh.

Help photos and extra explanation for this pattern can be seen at: click here. That url is:
http://filet-crochet.blogspot.com/2010/01/beginner-help-photos-for-crocheting.html

Starting Chain: Leaving a length beyond the first ch (to use later to weave in the end to secure it), ch 36.

Row 1: dc in 5th ch from hook, dc in ea ch across.

Row 2: ch 3 to turn (counts as first dc), dc in ea dc across, ending with a dc in the top of the ch-3 at the end of the row. (You should have 33 dc in this row.)

Row 3: ch 3 to turn (counts as first dc), dc in ea of next 4 dc, (ch 1, skip next dc, dc in next dc) twice then dc in ea of next 2 dc, (ch 1, skip next dc, dc in next dc) 9 times then dc in ea of next 3 dc, dc in
top ch of ch-3 at end of the row.

Row 4: ch 3 to turn (counts as first dc), dc in ea of next 4 dc, (ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc) 9 times then dc in ea of next 2 dc, (ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc) twice then dc in ea of next 3 dc, dc in top ch of ch-3 at end of the row.

Rows 5 - 10: Repeat Rows 3 and 4.

Row 11: Repeat Row 3.

Row 12: ch 3 to turn (counts as first dc), dc in ea of next 4 dc, (dc in ch-1 sp, dc in next dc) 9 times then dc in ea of next 2 dc, (dc in ch-1 sp, dc in next dc) twice then dc in ea of next 3 dc, dc in top ch of ch-3 at end of the row.

Row 13: Repeat Row 3.

Row 14: Repeat Row 4.

Row 15: ch 3 to turn (counts as first dc), dc in ea of next 4 dc, (dc in ch-1 sp, dc in next dc) twice then dc in ea of next 2 dc, (dc in ch-1 sp, dc in next dc) 9 times then dc in ea of next 3 dc, dc in top ch of ch-3 at end of the row.

Row 16: ch 3 to turn (counts as first dc), dc in ea dc across, ending with a dc in the top of the ch-3 at the end of the row. (33 dc)

End off, leaving a length to weave in to secure the end. Weave in ends.

Copyright, Terms of Use: This pattern created by Sandi Marshall, January 2010. Pattern instructions, pattern images and pattern chart are copyright 2010 by Sandi Marshall. You can help me to be able to continue designing new patterns by honoring copyright law regarding my patterns. In other words, do not republish my chart, pattern directions or images on another web page, blog or elsewhere (even if it would be distributed for free; which, when done without my permission would still be a violation of copyright law). Do not distribute reproduced copies of this pattern, in any form, even for free. Instead, you may give others the URL for this page so that they may come to this site for themselves. Thank you. ~ Sandi Marshall

Online Sources for Buying Yarn and Thread Online:
Each of the three online stores shown below have very good sale prices at various times. Simply click on any of the banners to go to that online store.

Click here to visit Paradise Fibers

Thread for Crochet

I was looking around at the JoAnn online store and noticed that there are quite a few items that you would use for filet crochet projects, such as thread for crochet, steel hooks and yarn. I've given examples of just a few below but you can find much more by browsing their web site.

Save With This Coupon Code:
I also thought you would like to know about this coupon code, so you can have great savings on a bigger item. 40% Off the Regular Price of One Item at Joann.com (Use Code: JAA1040 in the online order form when checking out.)

A Sampling of the Filet Crochet Related Products Carried by JoAnn Stores:

DMC Cebelia Crochet Cotton Size 10

Cebelia is a superior 100% cotton, three-cord, tightly twisted thread. It is wound on a small core resulting in a compact ball with high yardage.

For this link, each ball is 282 Yards. DMC Cebelia Crochet Ctn Sz 10 282 yds - Ecru

There are many colors available.

Shown are samples of just a few of those colors. To see additional colors, click here.

Cebelia cotton thread is available in 3 sizes.

Cebelia Cotton Thread - size 30

100% Cotton
563 Yards

There are many colors available. Shown is a sample of just one of those colors. To see additional colors, click here.

Boye Steel Crochet Hook Set
Used for crocheting with thread.

Steel Crochet Hook Set - Size 0 1 7 8 9 and 10

Boye steel crochet hook sets have built in thread leads for fast and uniform crocheting.

These hooks are made from tempered steel to prevent bending out of shape and are nickel plated to prevent rusting.

This set includes sizes 0 1 7 8 9 10.

There are also Boye single hooks (sold individually, one per package) available for purchase online, as well as single hooks and sets in other brand names.

Yarn
Used for filet crochet designs for afghans and more.

Many yarn brands and colors can be seen at the JoAnn web site. Here's one example:

Caron Simply Soft Yarn

Simply Soft Yarn -Iris

• 3 ounces (85 grams) and 157 yards
• No dyelot
• Machine wash and dry
• Suggested crochet hook: H8

Craft Organizer Totes

A variety of craft totes and organizers can be seen at the JoAnn web site also (an example of a larger item that you might use the 40% off coupon code for - see that code at the top of this page).

Here's just one example but there are many others, in various price ranges and styles:

Large Wheeled Tote-Kiwi/Chocolate Microfiber

The Large wheeled tote features:

• 42 elastic loops for crochet hooks, pens or scissors
• 31 storage pockets
• a unique top storage compartment
• larger interior and front pockets
• a front zip-down storage panel
• side zippered compartment that conceals 5 pockets
• Soft-sided design collapses for easy storage
• Overall dimensions: 19" x 12" x 20"
  

Images used with permission of the online store featured.

Craft Lamps Lighting Choices

When you're working on a filet crochet or other craft project, the right kind of lighting can make such a difference in avoiding eye strain and keeping the crafting process an enjoyable one. When crocheting, this is especially important when you are using crochet threadas your material of choice but is helpful when you are working with yarn as well.

Following are a few examples of some craft lamp lighting choices that could be an important addition to your craft supplies. Some even include a magnifier, which could be helpful for fine detail work and could make all the difference for someone who is experiencing some eyesight loss.

- - - - - - - - - - - - -
Here are a few more that could be just right to fit your decor (or your budget).

If you need to see a few more choices, just click on one of the lamp pictures and then explore more craft and hobby lamp choices at Amazon, with your own keyword searches, to find just the right one for your own craft or budget needs.

Mesh Point Repeats Scarf - Wider Width

An original design by Sandi Marshall

This scarf is made in a 4-dc mesh. I have written row by row directions and have also created a chart to go with it, for anyone who prefers to work filet crochet from a chart. Anyone who is new to filet crochet can make the scarf from the row by row directions but could also compare these directions to the chart to become familiar with filet crochet chart reading.

Materials: I crocheted the example with Coats and Clark TLC Cotton Plus light worsted weight yarn in color Hot Pink. US size H crochet hook.
You will need about 3 1/2 oz. for every 10 repeats (a repeat is rows 2 - 8).
When made with the materials listed, one repeat of rows 2 - 8 equals 3 1/4 inches in length. 10 repeats = about 32 1/2 inches in length. A scarf in this pattern that is 65 inches long will require about 7 oz. of yarn (when made with the materials listed). Most scarves are at least 60 inches long. Longer scarves are 70 - 80 inches long. Everyone has their own preference for scarf length.

Size: When made with the materials listed, the scarf is about 6 3/4 inches wide (without any outside round added). The length is determined by the number of repeats you choose to do.

Gauge: 4 dc = 1 inch, 2 dc rows = 1 inch. Gauge is not crucial for this pattern, unless for some reason, you want your scarf to be the exact measurements of the example. Scarves come in a wide variety of widths and lengths, so yours can successfully vary from the gauge of the example. As long as you are happy with your result, that's what counts.

Abbreviations: ch = chain, ch-2 sp = chain-2 space, dc = double crochet, ea = each, sc = single crochet, sp = space

Pattern Notes: You will turn at the end of each row. Please keep my copyright and terms of use with the pattern directions when you print out or save the pattern in any form. Thank you.

The photo at the bottom of this page can be helpful to refer to when crocheting rows 1 - 8 the first time through. The photo shows a close look at the placement of the stitches used in crocheting once through the repeat of the pattern. If you find that you have questions, refer to that photo first to see if that will clear up your question. If it doesn't, feel free to ask your question in the comments section of this pattern page.

This pattern is written in US American English crochet pattern terms.
Starting Chain: Leaving a strand to weave in later, chain 29.
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from the hook, sc in ea ch across. (28 sc)
Row 2: ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in ea of next 3 sc, (ch 2, skip next 2 sc, dc in next sc) 3 times, dc in ea of next 3 sc, (ch 2, skip next 2 sc, dc in next sc) 3 times, dc in ea of next 3 sc.
Row 3: ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in ea of next 3 dc, (ch 2, skip next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc) twice, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in ea of next 4 dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, (ch 2, skip next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc) twice, dc in next 2 dc, dc in top of ch-3 at end of the row.
Row 4: ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in ea of next 3 dc, ch 2, skip next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in ea of next 4 dc, ch 2, skip next 2 dc, dc in ea of next 4 dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, ch 2, skip next ch-2 sp, dc in ea of next 3 dc, dc in top of ch-3 at end of row.
Row 5: ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in ea of next 3 dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, (ch 2, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc) twice, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, (ch 2, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc) twice, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp. dc in ea of next 3 dc, dc in top of ch-3 at end of row.
Row 6: ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in ea of next 6 dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, ch 2, skip next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, ch 2, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, skip next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in ea of next 6 dc, dc in top of ch-3 at end of row.
Row 7: ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in ea of next 9 dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, ch 2, skip next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in ea of next 9 dc, dc in top of ch-3 at end of row.
Row 8: ch 1, sc in first dc, sc in ea of next 12 dc, 2 sc in ch-2 sp, sc in ea of next 12 dc, sc in top of ch-3 at end of row.
Additional Repeats: Repeat Rows 2 - 8 as many times as needed to reach the length that you want for your scarf.

Finishing: If desired, make an outside round to finish the edges, by making 2 sc around the post of each dc and one sc around the sc on the end of each sc row as you come to it. When you come to the short side of the scarf (the scarf end), make one sc in each stitch across that end then continue working around the posts of the stitches on the end of the rows, as done on the first long edge, sc along other short edge when you come to it and end with a slip stitch in the sc that began the outside round. Add fringe to the ends, if desired.

If you prefer to work filet crochet from a chart: Following is the chart that goes along with the row by row instructions above. For the scarf, you will make a row of single crochet before beginning the chart and will make a single crochet row after the last row shown on the chart before beginning the next repeat of the rows on the chart. When you have made as many repeats of the chart as you wish, to have the scarf length you desire, make one final row of single crochet.

Copyright, Terms of Use: This is a copyrighted pattern, created by Sandi Marshall, October 2008. You can help me to be able to continue designing new patterns by honoring copyright law regarding my patterns. In other words, do not republish my chart, pattern directions or images on another web page, blog or elsewhere (even if it would be distributed for free; which, when done without my permission would still be a violation of copyright law). Do not distribute reproduced copies of this pattern, even for free. I can't stress enough how important this is. Instead, you may give others the URL for this page so that they may come to this site for themselves. I appreciate that very much.


The photo above shows rows 1 - 8 so that you can see more clearly the placement of the stitches used in crocheting one repeat of the pattern.